What we did on our winter vacation.
The Superbowl was coming to Minneapolis, as was the usual frigid weather. Time to get out of town to someplace warmer. We'd never been to New Orleans, so we went.
The bus to the light rail was so late we took another bus, and managed to get to the airport in plenty of time to get through security. The plane was on time, but had trouble finding the bus into town. We got to the transfer point in town, and had to wait over half an hour for a bus to near the hotel, then had to walk several blocks from the bus. In general, transit websites were not very helpful. We were able to check in when we arrived, but we had a single room, not a suite, despite the name of the place and the info on the website. A “studio suite” is a contradiction in terms: it was just a single room with a kitchenette. The room was ok, not as quiet as I hoped because the hotel allows dogs – something to check in the future – and there were a couple in a room just down the hall. We went down the street to Barcardia, an “arcade bar”, for our first dinner; it had lots of arcade games but we were too tired to play. Apparently, “arcade bar” is a new thing, and we're going to look for them here. I had excellent crayfish bisque, Martin had a large salad, and we split sweet potato fries.
The first morning, Thursday, we walked to the French Quarter. If you have never been to New Orleans, the French Quarter is made up of narrow streets, with small old buildings which house interesting shops, excellent restaurants, and many bars. There many small hotels, and I think there are private residences as well. It seemed to me that Bourbon Street was mostly bars. The liquor laws are quite different from Minnesota – we heard people order their last round of drinks “to go”. People walking down the street drinking were common. The first day, I bought beignets at the famous Cafe Du Monde, but I wasn't very impressed. I wanted to try them, but they turned out to be plain deep fried squares of dough with lots of powdered sugar. They were rather bland, with no flavor other than “sweet”. We sat in Lafayette Park while I ate them, and listened to excellent music. Then we went into St. Louis Cathedral nearby, which was as beautiful as many we saw in Italy. We kept wandering through the French Quarter until I was exhausted, then we went back to the room to rest. When we got hungry, we went down the street to Lucy's Retired Surfer Bar for lunch. Martin had nachos he thought excellent, I had pork sliders, which were good. After that, we went to the Riverwalk – an indoor mall right on the Mississippi. The first store we found was Lindt; we ate samples that we were offered, and bought chocolate at high prices because we got single pieces to try different flavors. We found an observation platform and looked at the river, far downstream from home. We went to to Mother's Restaurant for dinner, which was near our hotel. It was really excellent. Hole in the wall with authentic creole food, Black run, and probably owned. I had a wonderful seafood gumbo with lots of shrimp, some crayfish, flavor was just right. Martin had the filé gumbo, which had chicken and sausage rather than seafood, and he really liked it. We also had a green beans and tomatoes side dish, which I plan to try to cook. I think Mother's had the best creole food of anyplace we went.
The next day we went to the Audubon Aquarium. We watched an excellent 3D movie, called, “Wild Ocean” about fish and fishing off the coast of South Africa. In the exhibits, we saw a large sea turtle in a huge tank that also had sharks and many other creatures. There was also an exhibit of sting rays, another of moon jellyfish, as well as many other specimens. We took a shortcut back to the hotel through Harrah's Casino, which was very bright and noisy. Later, we went to the French Quarter again. We happened on a parade, which was fun, and it was a manageable size for us. I believe it was Krewe of Corks. I acquired 2 strands of beads and an artificial fushia rose, and Martin got one strand of beads (we were to acquire more in the course of the trip). Had gelato, chocolate and zuppa, at Antoine's Annex, the best we had had since Italy, almost the best since Florence. After wandering for a while longer, we had dinner at Country Flame, some sort of Latin fusion, with Cuban influence. I had a fajita salad, which I want to try to make myself, Martin had tacos. After dinner, we went back to the room for the evening. A bit later, we heard a lot of noise outside. Turns out one of the parade routes ended on the corner our hotel was on. We went downstairs briefly, but it was too cold to stay outside very long – in the lower 50's, damp and windy. (I guess we could have gotten out our winter coats, but that would have been overkill.) Since we had a corner window, we had a good view; just as well it was as far up as it was. Watched off and on from the window until it ended, about 10 or 10:30.
The third day was similar, wandering in the French Quarter. We ate lunch at a Vietnamese restaurant, 9 Roses, on Conti Street. Good food, and different from what we had been eating. Just about every restaurant in New Orleans seems to be good. Wandered a while longer. Got take-out from Mother's for dinner, and I finally had a oyster po' boy, a whole sandwich filled with lots of excellent oysters, almost too much for me to eat, but I managed. Martin had a very good jambalaya. There were parades again, so it was noisy again, but they didn't late as late as the night before. In between watching the parades, we watched “The Martian” on TV, because that movie is very re-watchable, and was the best thing on that night.
Sunday we wanted to go to the City Park. Because of the parades, we couldn't get on the streetcar near our hotel, and had to walk about a dozen blocks, which it turned out to be farther than it looked on the map. We caught the streetcar and rode to the end of the line, to the New Orleans Museum of Art. It is housed in an old Neo-Classical building, and is small, maybe 20 rooms. Some of it was excellent, but some, as the saying goes, was, “Second rate works by first rate artists and first rate works by second rate artists”, or in the case of some, artists unknown outside the South. We had a pleasant lunch there, salad for Martin, portobello mushroom sliders for me. Then Martin walked around the sculpture garden while I sat and enjoyed the lovely weather - sunny, blue sky, in the 60's, weather we won't get here in Minnesota for a couple of months. I thought at the time, “this is what I came here for, warm weather”. On the way back, since we couldn't take the streetcar all the way, went into the French Quarter to a shop Martin wanted to return to, so he could buy black tourmaline pieces that caught his eye earlier. I was very tired by the time we got back. Went to Barcardia again for dinner, but I just couldn't stay because of the noise and people, (the Superbowl was starting) so we got take-out; Martin stayed and brought it back to the hotel for me.
Monday was our last full day. Mostly went to the French Quarter and walked around for a bit more, and bought pralines to take home. Had lunch at a place on Royal Street across from Antoine's, Cafe Soule; Martin had excellent gumbo, I had ok onion soup – under the broiler too long. Dinner was the hotel buffet, red beans and rice, plus a decent salad bar (they only did it a couple nights a week). I wish I had gone to Mother's again as I had planned.
On Tuesday, we had to check out by 11, but didn't need to get to the airport until 2. It was raining at first but stopped long enough for us to catch the streetcar around 11, transfer to another one, and get to the public library, near where we would catch the airport bus. We were going to go into the library and look around, and catch the bus later, but the library was closed because of plumbing problems. We should have been able to catch the bus out right away, but it never came, and we had to wait over half an hour for the next one. It rained again on the way out, but had stopped by the time we got there. We went through security, and out to our gate: we found a place to buy something for lunch - “Copeland's Scoop” - and also bought a sandwich for me for to eat on the plane. The flight was on time, and it was easy flight; we caught good train and bus connections, and were home before 8 pm.
We definitely avoided the Superbowl, the weather was warmer than Minneapolis, but the transportation sucked. We may go again, being careful not to go anytime near Mardi Gras, its not really our thing. All in all, glad we went.